With Patience all things are possible!

Today was the big day and when I say big I mean BIG... like in GINORMOUS BIG. Today was our safari day.  Please allow me to tell you how this impossible day was conceived and delivered.  When I first decided that South Africa would be our next trip I was happy, but in all my stupidity I had the sad thought, "Man... it would be nice if I could go to Kenya or Tanzania instead so I could also include a safari."  I was stoopid like that for about 2 weeks (check the spelling... that's how stupid I was).  Suddenly myself told myself,  "If you don't get your stoopid-self on google and see if South Africa has safaris Imma slap you upside yo' head!"  So being that I'm afraid of my own threats of self-inflicted bodily harm I quickly got on google.  Not only does South Africa have safaris, it has plenty of 'em!  My first 10 minutes of searching was disappointing though.  The safaris ranged from $8,000-$13,000 per person for 3-5 days.  First of  all it would take me a lifetime to save that and even if I did have that much money I would want to be out there with AlphaPoppa, not Zane and Dude.  I'm just being honest! So then my next thought was,"I wonder if I could just pay for just a day or a few hours? Hmmmm? That would be enough for me and the boys for our first safari."  So my next google search was "one day safari in Johannesburg". I came up with only one website that advertised the trip for $165 per person for a day with pick up from your Johannesburg location.  I immediately sent them an email.  Now spending that $495 on the safari would cost more than double my housing and food while in South Africa but you only live once right?  Quickly Louise from the safari website emailed me, they had an availability on Christmas Eve and Dude would ride free so my total cost would be $330!!!  I was jumping for joy because I really didn't have $495 but $330 was closer to my range.  After confirming that I wanted the tour on that day my housing accommodations fell to pieces.  In addition to then putting my full attention on housing, I also was reluctant to pay for the safari online with so many things changing at the last minute. What if I don't go at all?  What if we don't make the flight?  What's their refund policy, etc?  By the time Lousie responded to my email asking if I could pay upon arrival I was in my seat on the plane.  Her response was I had to pay online at 2pm the day before the safari.  That deadline was 6 hours BEFORE I received her email.  I'd missed the deadline and possibly a chance of a lifetime opportunity.

Once in Johannesburg, after I settled into our little cottage at 2B Happy Lodge, I checked in at the main office with Patience, one of the property managers.  Patience asked me what I hoped to do while in "Jozi"?  I rambled off a few random things that I wasn't so sure about and told her how I'd just missed out on a day safari opportunity for the following morning.  Patience gently smiled at me and informed me that she knew of a few more safari tour companies.  She picked up the phone and started to make calls.  What she came up with was a safari guided by JoziTours, this safari was identical to the first option but only $125 per adult half off for Zane ($68) and Dude for free.  My new total was $193 and they would call back to verify if there was an opening for Thursday's tour, the day after Christmas. They called back hours later with the bad news that they will NOT offer a tour onThursday.  Patience broke the bad news to me and when she saw my sad face she said "don't worry my dear, be patient we will find something"
 

The next morning (yesterday) she came to me with a game plan.  "OK Erica, you can rent a car for $60 drive to the park yourself and just look around from the car window." In my head the response was "Say what, say huh?!?! There is no way I can rent a car that is right hand drive, drive 2.5 hours to the park (while still jetlagged) with two children, in South Africa!!  I don't even know how to pump or buy gas here! I'm adventurous but not suicidal.  I wouldn't make it to the highway driving in the left side of the street. I would then have to drive through a nature game reserve that houses 450+ elephants 75+ lions, rhinos, giraffes, and other animal that I've never seen or heard of!!"  She once again saw my face ask me for another hour for her to think.  For the record none of this is in Patience's job description.  Her job is to make sure we check in and out without trashing the place in between.  She was doing this all of her own kindness and was very adamant that she wanted us to leave with a positive impression of South Africa.
 

After an hour I returned.  By this time she'd spoken to a tour company based out of Sun City minutes from Pilanesburg Game Park.  They would do the tour on Christmas Day for $40 for me and $20 for Zane, with Dude going for free. After tax and gratuity it would be $68 total.  Wtf!!!  This whole thing went from $495/ $330 to $68!!!  Hell yes Patience! The only catch is that they don't pick up from Johannesburg I would have to find a ride to sun city which is 2.5 hours away.  She suggested the rental again. Again that was an absolute N-O!  She then called two tour places who were closed on Christmas.  She then reluctantly suggested her husband drive me with her joining along for the ride.  Her kids were older and Christmas is not a big commercial productions like in the US so she said she wouldn't mind spending her day off getting out of the city.  We negotiated a price $50 for gas and $50 for ther time. Taking us there and waiting for us to finish our tour.  The new total was $168.  Not bad at all.  In one day I would have spent that in gas and groceries at home!!  We agreed.   She called to reserve my spot for Christmas morning and she told me to be ready by 5am to head out early to sun city for my safari pick up.
 

During each journey I am gifted an angel (or two) Patience and her husband, Sibusiso are mine for my journey in South Africa.  It was even nicer to find out that Sibusiso (which means blessed in Zulu) was the same smiling driver who picked us up from the airport.  

Merry Christmas from the Motherland!

We are slowly adjusting to the time change.  I forced myself to stay up until 10pm last night, dude was right there hanging out with me.  We played War with our new deck of cards and he played with Legos while I updated the blog and Instagram.  It was a struggle to stay awake though.  Who knew that War would be such a hit with these kids?  They were not at all interested in it since it's not a video game or electronic, but despite its pre-historic nature they love it, especially Dude, he always wins and it's a great practice in numbers recognition and value.  It's like a perfect little traveling math lesson for a 4 year old.  Poor Zane fell asleep super early and woke up as  soon as dude and I laid down to sleep.  It's 4 am now on Christmas Day and we are ready for the joy that today will bring.  For all of you reading the blog, commenting, and holding us in your hearts during our travels please allow me to thank you for the love and support.  It means the world to us, and you know I love the world; and I love you!

Xoxoxo

Jetlag, Apartheid, Soweto, and so much more

Oh yea, the Jetlag monster has got us.  We all woke up about 1 am and have been up since... it's now 1pm.  This is one of the negative parts of traveling with children, their jetlag hours become your jetlag hours, in addition to your own.  I was ready to go back to sleep by 4am but dude wasn't.  So that meant no one would be able to shut their eyes any longer than a blink until he slept first.... which never happened.  During our late night silent party we played games again, ate everything edible in the house, drank tea, played games on our phones, flipped and flopped.  It was a mess.  The boys were careful to not make a lot of noise.  The last thing I wanted was for other guest to complain of noisy children. The sun rose at 5am and that made it even harder to catch some shut eye.  By 7am I'd had enough of the flipping flopping, shushing, and "Mom, is it time yet?".  I got us all up, we all bathed, and got dressed.  We were all still hungry and needed breakfast.  Our first stop was the front office to ask where the grocery store was.  Patience was there with her big beautiful smile and she pointed out two nearby grocery stores on a neighborhood map.  The Pick'N'Pay was further but cheaper with a wider variety but the local small store was closer despite a small selection and higher prices.  I decided to go with the Pick'N'Pay but changed my mind shortly after our walk began and dude started complaining the he was cold and hungry. The store I found, I'm not sure if it was the one from Patience's map, was small and run down but would do the trick.  We got eggs, bread, apple juice, ramen noodle-ish type packets, and snacks.  Once I can get to a real store I will get milk, cereal, and other things for our cute lil cottage.  After breakfast I returned to Patience to see if she could help us set up the days tour.  I decided on the Apartheid Museum and Soweto tour.  Before I could even get into details about the places I was interested in she already began with ideas and rates she's gotten on tours, rental cars, sites that would make our 4 days here a pleasant experience.  I appreciated her sweetness and took her up on a few of her ideas.  She arranged for Jozi Tours to pick us up at 10:30. And we got together details for the next days journey.

The Apartheid Museum was heavy as expected.  What I didn't expect was there to be so many similarities between the apartheid struggle and the US Civil Rights struggle.  For whatever reason I knew they were similar yet different, but after a couple of hours being given a direct history lesson I see that is was the same monster.  So many atrocities that were committed here also occurred at home.  Children murdered by police, people beaten and jailed for speaking out against a segregation system, peaceful protestors being met with brutal deadly force.  It was an ugly violent déjà vu.  White supremacy enforced by laws to create an inferior laboring class of people who were deemed non-human.  It's was disgusting.  Awe-strikingly disgusting, if I were able to think of another stronger word it would be that as well.  The main difference I see though, in comparison of both countries history is the South Africa seems to be having a better outcome.  Their government acknowledged the wrong past and have made measures to reconcile, apologize, and many ways to right the wrongs of the past.  The US however has never done this. The movent from slavery to full rights for African-Americans during reconstruction, then the landslide backward to our own apartheid system( that just used the name Jim Crow as an alias) was never acknowledged as wrong, our leaders were murdered, there has never been an apology and never a discussion on reparations or how we can try to undo the damage done to victims of vicious governent enforced racism.  Just the thought of all this, if you can tell, pretty much pissed me off.  The oppressor mentality is real and ruthless, they rather stay down with you in a choke hold than to improve life for all through justice and equality.  This sick mentality that was spread through so many places on earth is frustratingly impossible to understand because it is ignorant and irrational at its core.
 

After the museum our tour guide took us to Soweto.  Soweto is a city of 3.5 millions residents and stands for SOuthWEstern TOwnship.  Townships were government controlled ghettos that blacks were forced to live in.  Their positioning in townships allowed black to be close enough to whites (and the gold mines) to get to them daily to serve them but also trapped them in so that their every movement was controlled.  Up until the early 90s the residents of Soweto weren't allowed to leave  their homes after 8pm, people were not allowed to walk or congregate in a groups larger than 2 people, the people forced to live there were often separated from their family members.  This is all too familiar right?!  Before going to Soweto I was sure that we would encounter a long stretching shanty town trampled with crime and poverty.  Boy was I wrong.  Soweto has 3 sections divided by class (not race).  The wealthy; who lived in beautiful homes that lacked the intense security that you find in other parts of Johannesburg.  Most have tall walls around them but not with the electric spiraled barbed-wire that can be found on top of most house walls.  This was the most shocking part if the Township for me.  My guide, Eric, informed me that the wealthy area was built in about '97 after the first democratic election was held.  What is now the middle class section, the next class of Soweto residents used to be the wealthy section during the Apartheid area which lasted from 1948-1991.  During that time however, blacks were not allowed to own homes and they could only rent.  Once the ANC (Nelson Mandela political party, The African National Congress) was in power residents had opportunity to purchases  their homes for an extremely low price.  Eric says that the people there love their homes and they rarely sell, hoping to pass it down to following generations. The third section is the shanty towns.  The shanty town shacks were built by the Apartheid government like housing barracks to separate families.  According to Eric the shanty town I saw today was just a fraction of what it used to be.
 

During our time in Soweto we also drove past Desmond TuTu's home, Mandela's home from right before he was released from jail, we saw Winnie Mandela's home, and the area were the 1978 student protest resulted in a police led massacre on peaceful protesters.  We then went to the Hector Pieterson museum.  He was 13 years old at the time when he a was shot and killed by the police during an unarmed peaceful protest.  

Eric was an awesome guide and was able to answer all of my questions.  Once apartheid ended did many whites leave South Africa? Yes, a good number of then fled to Canada and Australia.  What happened to the Apartheid supporting political party?  The party was dismantled.  The ones who saw the errors of their ways joined the ANC (the Africa Natonal Congress) Mandela's party and they immediately began working to try to right wrongs of the past.  Those who were unbudged apartheid supporters joined the other existing white political parties. Do white people live in Soweto? Yes, five of them. They are in relationships with black residents who are from Soweto.  I'm telling you this guy was the best.  On the way home we stopped by the hand craft market near the Hector Pieterson museum.  I bought so goodies for my peep that I'll have to surprise them with at home.  I also bought myself a beaded Zulu bracelet.  Before ending our tour we bought a pizza for dinner and headed home.  Tomorrow is a big day and we will have to get up at 5am and hit the road for our surprise Chtistmas present.  Man I hope we have perfect warm, sunny weather,  and I look forward to see the country outside of Jozi.

Hello Mama Africa!

We left on a rainy rainy Sunday.  I was concerned that the non-stop rain would cancel our flight and once again mess up my plans, but luckily it didn't.  We boarded a little late and ended up leaving about an hour after our scheduled departure time.  I sent a quick email to my driver letting him know that we were on the way but possibly with a delay.  I also emailed my Christmas Eve surprise for the family to arrange our pick up which was still in the air.

When I reflect on this whole journey, I immediately think, "I really must be a mad woman.  Taking two children on a 15 hour flight to Africa.  Who does crazy shit like that anyway?!" Apparently despite acknowledgment of my insanity the answer to that questions is ME.... as well as a whole lot of others.   I've never been on a flight with so many children in my life, and the ages ranged from infant to pre-teen.  It almost seemed like everyone had at least one child with them.  This made me a little more comfortable.  Even though Zane and Dude are professional travelers in the event they have a break down mid-flight I'd like to think that other parents would have a greater sense of compassion.  The plane was laid out with 3 rows of 3, as opposed to a row of 4 seats in the middle like on our flight to Tokyo.  This fit us perfectly.  In the row behind us was another African-American family, the two parents and their daughter who looked to be 4 years of like dude.  In front of us was a white South African family who had mom, an infant in arms and 2 more children who looked to be around 3 and 6 years old.  Apart from the infant crying a bit here and there all the children were calm, and barely made a peep the whole flight.  Zane and Dude spent the first  3-4 hours of the flight watching movies, TV shows, and playing games on the touch screen tablets on the back of the seats in front of us.  Dude really fell in love, and eventually asleep, listening to the KidzBop album.  The best part was that he was passionately singing along with each child remix, then suddenly fell asleep mid harmony, which totally tickled me and Zane.  He was mature enough to keep his voice low enough so that others couldn't hear is one man concert.  After that Dude spread his little body out and slept for the next 9 hours, Zane went down next, also sprawled out. And mami Echo was next.  If only I could have taken pictures of all the creative ways we were able to all lay down across those three seats.  We were like a barrel of snakes. Each one of us taking a turn to have a limb or two under another body. Then rotating it on top.  How we managed I have no idea, but I definitely saw the families in front of us and behind us participating in the same creative slumbering.  The meals were decent enough and what whenever one of us didn't finish (or start) a roll, nutrigrain bar, pretzels, peanuts, cookie etc.  I stuffed it in Zane's backpack in case we needed a quick snack for later.  We were all fully awake for the last hour of the flight. This time it was me singing along to Bruno Mars' album that was provided as one of many options for inflight entertainment.  Before we knew it we were gliding low over the motherland and boy is she a beauty.  All my travels have taught me that our planet looks like herself from all angles, meaning no part of the world, that I've seen at least,  is unrecognizable as Earth.  Each place has it's own characteristic, some places may have more water, more trees, more mountains, but ultimately she always looks like herself.  Africa is no different, but it's undeniable that in this case that unique characteristic is vastness.  All I could see was flat land sprawled out until it once again touched the sky.  I must have not been the only one because as we got closer Dude said "Woooow!"
 

We then deplaned and creeped slowly through customs.  Before boarding our flight all airline employees are frantically checking each non-South African passport to make sure there is a full blank visa page in the booklet.  South African immigration will deny you entry if you do not have a full blank page that says visa on top.  A blank page with a number, will not do.  In case you are wondering "denying entry" means just that,  they say "no you cannot enter" they then sit you in a holding room, fine you, and put you on the airline's next fight out.  
 

Knowing this shocked me when I saw the agent not take up a full page but instead chose to stamp one little square on a page that already had 3 stamps.  I had to ask the agent why all the hoopla about the full blank page.  He basically told me that they just way to make sure they have room to place their stamp properly, not take up an entire page.  Ooookkkkk.....  Well regardless, it's the rules and they can enforce them as they please.  My reason for bringing this up to you, however, is to let you know as travelers it is our responsibility to know these things BEFORE we visit a place.  There are countless entry and exit requirements for the many world governments.  Before each trip I visit the US State Departments travel website and research the country we will be visiting.  Some countries require 6 months additional time on your passport after your departure date, exit fees, tourist card purchases, etc.  these are things that are vital for budgeting and unpleasant surprises during travel.
 

Once done with all the official stuff we changed our money to Rands ( South Africa's currency $1USD= 10 Rand) and exited the airport's international terminal.  Front and center was our driver holding a sign with my name.  His huge smile was contagious and he eagerly helped little Dude with his bag.  He escorted us to his car and we were off to the 2B Happy Backpacker's Lodge!! In addition to his permanent smile he also played happy music in the car.  It was a blend of acapella south-African Christian music in which each song had a  happy message.  After about a 25 minute drive we arrived at 2B Happy.  This was all too happy to be fake.  I loved it!  Eagerly waiting us was the lodge director Patience and their 3 legged dog Scooter.   The lodge is behind a big wall on a street that quietly hide under a stretching canopy.  The courtyard in the middle was surrounded by cottages.  One of those cottages was ours and it was love at first site!  I can't believe we lucked out on such a nice place for such a great price!  It was clean, well decorated, and had everything we need... Plus more! 

Once we settled it the rain came, nice and easy. We enjoyed it and strolled to the main office/ game socializing cottage.  While there we checked in and met another visitor from Germany who'd just washed and folded her clothes.  I told Patience about my Christmas Eve surprise for the boys and that I didn't think it would happen since I didn't pay online by their deadline.  She made a few phone calls and actually found a lower price for us on Thursday with another company.  Things still aren't finalized so i will just keep ally finger and toes crossed.  

After checking in with all my family and friend on viber and glide I updated Facebook and Instagram.  Although we had a TV we chose to stay up and play monopoly (South African edition) provided by the lodge.  Then I taught this little jokers how to play Uno, Dominos, and war.  

We are all so excited for the sun to come up so we can see what's around. It's now 3 AM here (7hours ahead of home) we slept again and are now wide awake eating all those snacks and sandwiches I packed in the bag!  The game plan for the morning is to walk to the grocery store to buy things to eat and cook during our stay here. Then to get out to Mandela square. 

Nervousness is a part of the journey

So, I've been quietly planning this trip to Johannesburg, South Africa for about 3 months.  About two weeks ago everything was perfect.  We would leave Friday December 20th right after I got off of work and the boys got out of school.  Our South African friend's brother would pick me and the boys up from the airport (AlphaPoppa's staying home) and we would spend a 5 days with them paying $125USD for room and board.  Whenever we travel we always prefer local families over hotels.  I much rather give money to a local loving family than to a hotel chain trying to offer me a fake/ comfortable American experience abroad ... no thank you.  HOWEVER, the night before the trip our host family tried to raise the agreed price on us (they'd previously agreed the the original payment was more than fair being they had a large home with a few empty bedrooms). Their only reason for changing the price was that "rich Americans should be able to pay more".  At this point I realized that money was not the issue here, it became more of an issue of greed possibly creating and unsafe, uncomfortable, living arrangement.  I wouldn't be comfortable staying in a home with a man who felt I owe him something if I were alone, and definitely not with two small children.  So now at 1am Friday morning (the day of the flight) I'm frantically trying to find affordable living arrangements.  Far from our intended host's belief we are not even close to rich and I am always on an extremely tight budget. In my crazy late night bed and breakfast search I sent emails to about 5 Bes and Breakfasts (BNBs) who more expensive than our host agreement but still affordable.  I also changed my plane ticket to Sunday hoping I could salvage the trip and all the things I had planned for us in Johannesburg.  Of course after all that I still couldn't sleep.

By the time I got to work the next morning I'd received emails from 4 of the 5 BNBs saying they don't accept children.  But the one I was hoping for. The one that gave me that good feeling said yes!  It only takes one yes, right?!  The 2B Happy Backpacker's Lodge said YES.  When I saw the name I knew it was the one I wanted and all the reviews and Facebook comments were positive.  

We collectively as a family decided that the iPad and Nintendos would stay home and each of us would just bring an iPhone.  Both spoiled brats have acquired old hand-me-down iPhones that don't have service but can use apps for games, take pix, and videos. We decided that they will use their phones for daily learning activities and to create their own personal photo journal of their trip.  For entertainment and bonding time we are going old school.  I bought a deck of cards, Uno, and Dominos.  The kids are not excited about that part at all and are not convinced that cards can be any fun.  So now we are all packed ready and ready to go.  I'm a nervous wreck hoping that everything works out fine... One would think in used to this, that by now I wouldn't get nervous.  But each and every trip I'm nervous to the point of canceling it all and climbing under the covers instead.  But I have a life philosophy that doesn't allow me to hide from the universe's gifts to me.  If I plan and everything lines up, I have been blessed, and the only thing I must do is walk my path.  Nervousness is a part of the journey.  So. Now. I. Walk.

Bye-bye Bermuda

For my last morning here I only had two things on the agenda.  The first was to see the world famous Johnnie Bonds.  I first heard about Johnny Bonds from a lesson my son's school did about happiness.  Johnny Bonds was named "the happiest man in the world".  He got this title by making it his life mission to spread happiness, and he does this from the small yet big-hearted island of Bermuda.  Every morning from 6am- 11am (right before it gets too hot) this always smiling 80+ year old man stand on the side of one of the countries busiest intersections blowing kiss to those who pass shouting out "I love you!"  He immediately captures the hearts of local Bermudians, tourist, and travelers.  Where I come from this outright act of love and kindness would be associated with mental illness making us very uncomfortable.  But when you look at Mr.  Bond's actions from a spiritually perspective and from the heart you see that he may be one of few rooted in reality in a world that seems to be becoming sicker and more dangerous.  Unfortunately, I was a little too late to see Mr. Bonds this morning.  The life-size statute that the government has put up of him however stands tall and proud in his place as a reminder (to those of us who don't get to see him in person) that love and kindness is the purpose of life.  

My second and final item on my list was to drop off post cards for loved ones back home.  Since I'm always on such a tight budget one of my money saving tricks is to send postcards home from my destinations.  People actually love this gesture.  It always surprises me when I visit my parents or friend and I see a postcard from 9 years ago tucked in the frame of their bedroom mirror.  Buying a t-shirt for everyone cost way too much and creates more baggage for me to bring home.  Post cards however have a beautiful picture, let's people know that they were on your mind enough to write them a thoughtful message, and even if they arrive a week after I've return it always a pleasant surprise to find amongst a stack of bills.  Yesterday I bought 4 postcards for $1BD and it cost me $2.80BD to send them off.  Even though I'll be home in 3 hours, those postcards will make 4 people smile when they arrive in a few days or weeks.  

Right now I'm at the airport for an early check-in.  My belly is full, my heart is content, and I have one hell-of-a view from where I'm sitting and chilling.  As soon I get home I will start budgeting and planning for my next trip (btw apart from the plane ticket) I spent less than $100 in these 3 days, I would have spent twice as much at home in gas and groceries.  I think I just came up with my new travel motto, "travel cheap, travel often".  Let me know what you think of it or please share if you would like to donate a motto that describes Echo and her Journeys.

A ferry beautiful day!

 Once again my lazy butt slept in late.  I must really need this rest!  I must admit though, I do miss the boys and AlphaPoppa.  Next visit here hopefully they all will join me.  I'd love them to spend the day making new friends and playing with the kids here.  I think they'd learn so much, just like I have!

 Today's journey was another gem.  We took the bus to downtown Hamilton and bought a ferry ticket to the Royal Naval Dockyard.  While waiting for the ferry we shopped in the downtown area, mostly just looking at outrageous prices and taking pictures.  Once we returned to Hamilton Harbour I saw that the ferry was much more than I'd expected.  For just $4 it certainly couldn't be that much.  Little did I know!  It was pretty bad-ass!   The air conditioned bottom deck was packed with passengers from a docked enormous Norwegian cruise ship so we sat up stairs in the shaded deck.  The 15 minute ride was breathtaking.  I took pictures and videos for just about the whole trip.   We passed mansions, yachts, wind sailers, islands, a ginormous  barge passed by us roaring like a fat snoring old man....  When we finally arrived I'd decide that those 15 minute had already made the rest of the day perfect.  Once we go back to solid ground we agreed that Ice cream was needed.  We ordered our cones and decided to look at the forts and the dockyard.  One thing I hear often from the people I visit is that having an out if town visitor is always a pleasure they get a chance to see their city as a tourist and momentarily escape from the monotony of everyday life and it's responsibilities.  Rhonda was no exception.  I try to always be a good guess.  Paying for everything I can, helping wash dishes, holding good conversation.  I save so much by not paying for a hotel that a homestay is a win-win for all.  Unfortunately we'd jut missed the last dockyard tour but we were able to see te fort and the local art for sale.  We decided to take the bus back to Hamilton  Harbour.  By the time we finished stroking and talking it was staring to get dark so we hopped in a taxi and headed home.  

I leave tomorrow afternoon so im still thinking of how I should spend my last morning here.  As always I'll make a flexible plan then just wait to see what life gives me.